Cruise Control System Overview.
Detail Cruise Control system.
This document covers the cruise control system as fitted by the
factory. The system comprises various components and includes the
following:
Each part will be discussed within the document to give you as
much information as possible
The Master control unit.
The master control unit accepts all the system inputs and gives
various outputs to control the vehicles speed. The master unit is
principally a microprocessor that has its own software built on
board. The unit monitors the inputs from the actuation and safety
switches and offers outputs to control the vacuum valves and cruise
indicator lights.
The Actuator switches.
The actuator switches mounted on the right side handle bar control
unit allow the system to be armed by the cruise on switch and speed
controlled by the set-deceleration / resume-acceleration switch.
Safety Switches
Various safety switches are employed within the system and are as
follows
- Front brake cruise cancel
- Clutch cancel
- Throttle cancel
- Rear brake cruise cancel
- 4th gear switch
- 5th gear switch
In this section it must be noted that the 4th & 5th gear switches
are inside the engine and can only be tested from the outside, there
is no need to dismantle the engine unless you really feel the need.
The throttle, Front and rear brake switches
Throttle switch
The throttle switch will disengage the cruise control system if
turned fully in the deceleration direction.
The front and rear brake switches
If either/both the brake switches are depressed the cruise system
will cancel automatically
The Clutch switch
The clutch switch works in the same way as the Front and rear brake
switch
4th and 5th Gear switches
The 4th and 5th gear switches are mounted within the engine the
switch has an output to every gear position including the neutral
position for clarity we have only shown the neutral.4th and 5th gear
positions.
The full testing guide, which you can use at your own risk, can
be downloaded as a printable Word Document. The document comes with
pictures to help you find your way around.
It must be understood by you, that the use of this Technical help
file is used entirely at your own risk, no responsibility or
liability can be placed on the writer whatsoever.
Before you get started you should have read the introduction on the
page you have just left, this gives an overview of the system. All
terminology regarding left and right assumes you are sat on the
vehicle and facing forward. You will need to take off the seat of
the vehicle, towards the rear of the seat there is a plastic cover
box on either side and look identical, on the right side of the
vehicle is the cruise control box with the plug we need access to.
Unclip the box from the holding bracket and open the unit by the
self locking clips, inside the box will be a plug and socket. once
open, unplug the plug and socket and take the box away and put it
safe.
The photo shows the plug disconnected. . The part to the left
(plug) goes to the cruise control unit, the right (socket) goes into
the main wiring loom to the safety, control switches relays and
vacuum system solenoids. This is where we carry out all the
electrical testing from. If you want to know where the control unit
is located, well it's right under the trunk and a bit of a pain to
reach.... but at this stage you don't need to go there. As you look
at the photo I have added PIN numbers to the picture to allow you
easy reference to the socket. Warnings PINS 2, 3, 4, 5, 11, 14, 15,
20 SHOULD NOT BE TESTED.
Lets get started with the tests.....
The first test is to ensure that we have a supply available to the
cruise control unit, this is carried out with the test meter set to
read DC Volts. The Red test probe should be connected to Pin 17and
the black test probe connected to the frame. Turn on the ignition
switch and press the cruise "ON" switch to activate the cruise
control system, the meter should then read approx 12 Volts.
Turn off the Cruise "ON" switch and the Ignition switch. Take out
the ignition key and put it in your pocket.
The following tests should be carried out with the test meter set to
read Resistance or buzzer.
Do Not turn on the ignition or Cruise "ON" switch unless told to do
so
Cruise set /deceleration & resume/ acceleration Switch's
The first test to be carried out is the operation of the
set/deceleration & resume/acceleration switches. This is
accomplished by putting the Red test probe to Pin 17 and the Black
test probe into Pin 21 Push the set/deceleration switch the meter
should then show a low resistance or buzz (if available). Change the
black test probe to Pin 22 and push the resume/acceleration button
the same readings should occur as for the Push the set/deceleration
switch.
Change the black test probe to Pin 16, you should show a resistance
of around 95 ohms, if you do then relay 2 coil is fine.
Clutch Switch
To test the clutch switch operation we need to put the Red test
probe to Pin 17, change the black test probe to Pin 12, when the
clutch switch is pulled in the meter should show a low resistance or
buzz (if available).
Throttle, Front and rear brake switches
The next bit needs a little explanation so you are aware of whats
going on. The throttle, Front and rear brake switches are wired in
series this means we can test all of them at once, these switches
are the safety circuit which holds in relay 2 (the cruise set relay)
which applies the live feed to the vacuum solenoids.
To test this circuit we need to put the Red test probe to Pin 17,
change the black test probe to Pin 6, The meter should be showing a
low resistance or buzz (if available), when the front brake switch
is pulled in the meter should show a high resistance or the
buzzer (if available) should stop, releasing the brake lever should
turn the buzz back on, repeat the test for the rear brake lever.
The throttle is tested by turning the throttle all the way down (in
the decel direction) and the same results should occur
If you do not hear the buzzer straight away, one of the switches or
cables between them is faulty.
Cruise system indicator lights (Dash panel)
Place the Red test probe in pin 17, turn on the cruise"ON" switch
(right handlebar switch), place the black test probe into Pin
18, the meter should read approx 11 ohms. this tells you that the
"cruise on indicator lamp" is fine. Now Place the black test probe
in pin 7, the meter should read approx11 ohms again, this tells you
that the "cruise set indicator lamp" is fine.
4th and 5th Gear Switches
The 4th and 5th gear switches are mounted within the engine but can
also be tested from the socket. with the red test probe connected to
Pin 10 and the black test probe to the frame, begin to take the bike
into 4th gear, you may need a hand to work the back wheel to get
there, once you do the meter should show a resistance of 0ohms,
change the red test probe to Pin 9 and go up to 5th gear, the test
should have the same result.
Solenoid Valve testing
To test the solenoid valves on the vacuum system follow the
procedure as follows;
The Red test probe should be placed in Pin 8, the black test probe
in Pin 19, you should read a resistance value of approx82ohms. This
tests the solenoid valves for the Vent and Vacuum valve.
The Red test probe should now be placed in Pin 8, the black test
probe in Pin 13, you should read a resistance value of approx
82ohms. This tests the solenoid valves for the Relief valve and
Vacuum valve.
The Red test probe should now be placed in Pin 13, the black test
probe in Pin 19, you should read a resistance value of approx
82ohms. This tests the solenoid valves for the Relief valve and Vent
valve.
If the readings above are correct your vacuum valves are fine,
this covers the testing of the electrical system other than relay 2
latching circuit connections, this is due to the relay being driven
by the cruise control unit. This could be achieved by putting a
shorting wire across the open connections of the relay base but this
is not worth doing unless you know which terminal to put it across.
If all the above tests are fine then its down to either the vacuum
system or the cruise control unit itself, I know you don't want to
know this but the unit costs around £700.00. so be sure you test
everything. you can Reassemble the plug and socket, put the cover
box back in place. but do not replace the seat yet
Testing the Vacuum system.
To test the vacuum system you will need to have the engine running,
Firstly take off the left side inner fairing to gain access to the
solenoid valve assembly, This is easily locates and looks like a
black steel block with a vent, pipes and cable coming out of it,
disconnect the pipe that goes down to the actuator body, start the
engine, and suck on the open end of the pipe very gently (or you may
rupture the diaphragm) once you start to suck (gently) the engine
revs should increase, if this occurs without losing the vacuum in
your mouth put your tongue over the pipe. This should maintain the
vacuum and stabilize the engine rev's. If it does your vacuum system
would appear to be working fine from the valve assembly, However the
fault could lie in the pipe work prior to the valve assembly. That's
when you want the Professional help ( have you seen the amount of
pipes on the engine ) trust me don't go there.
